This post is the continuation of a series documenting our time in the Eastern part of the Italian island of Sicily in the European Spring of 2025. We had started in the resort town of Taormina where we had just walked around the old town and seen the churches there on our first day ( First impressions of Taormina – Exploring Eastern Sicily, Part 1 ) and enjoyed Taormina at it’s best on an early morning walk through the otherwise crowded streets and squares of Old town ( Taormina at Dawn – Serene & Beautiful – Exploring Eastern Sicily, Part 2 ).
We returned from our morning walk and enjoyed a delicious breakfast of fresh bread and pastries, cheese, ham, cut veggies (including artichokes which were a local specialty), a delicious bowl of freshly cut fruits & freshly brewed coffee. The breakfast was served on the terrace of our B & B Evelyne and we filled our tummies to the brim on that sunny morning.
Breakfast on the terrace of the B & B Evelyne in Taormina
We then set off to visit the site in Taormina that I was most looking forward to the most – The Teatro Antico or the Greek Roman Theatre of Taormina. While researching about Sicily I had noticed that the island was home to many Greek ruins but none had the setting like the Theatre in Taormina. It was on the edge of a cliff with expansive views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. I had seen so many photos and videos of the theatre hoping to be there in person some day. I was happy that the day had arrived with the added bonus of being a clear day so that Etna was visible in all her glory.
Our B and B was very close to the street leading to the Teatro Antico and we climbed the stairs (no escaping stairs in Taormina) and walked to the gate and the ticket office right as it opened. There was almost no queue that early in the morning and soon we were walking towards the famous monument.
Walking up the stairs to the street leading towards the Teatro Antico
I wanted to be there early before the cruise crowds arrived from Catania and flooded the town and the Theatre itself. We walked to the top of the theatre and I could understand what the fuss was all about as I stepped into the Theatre itself.
Stepping into the Teatro Antico with the views already wowing us
The perfect location of the Theatre with most striking of natural background of an active Volcano just couldn’t be beaten. We just stood there and took in the views wondering how amazing it would be to actually see a performance here! The theatre which was built in 3rd century BC by the Greeks and then modified by the Romans still holds performances in the summer now. We were a few months early for that and had to satisfy ourselves by imagining how grand a performance would feel in that atmosphere , with that backdrop!
The Greek Roman Theatre in Taormina with the omnipresent Mt Etna beyond
The photo I was looking forward to clicking the most in Taormina
We clicked away to glory happy that we were here when it wasn’t too crowded and used our mobile tripod to take photos of ourselves with the grand background. We also noticed the Sanctuary of Madonna della Rocca and the Saracen Castle on the hill above – It seemed a bit daunting from here but we planned to hike up there before our time in Taormina was done.
A fellow tourist sits and admires the view at the Teatro Antico
Using the mobile tripod to take photos of ourselves with the grand background
The Theatre with the Sanctuary of Madonna della Rocca & the Saracen Castle on the hill beyond
Happy us at having reached the Teatro Antico in Taormina
We then went to the terrace on the far side of the Theatre which had great views over the town itself and the coast below. The cliff side location of the town is just beautiful to look at and we clicked photos at the town that was right next door but seemed so far from the terrace.
Taormina from the terrace on the far side of Teatro Antico
Wild flowers grow abundantly on the cliff side with the town in the background
A fellow tourist takes our photo with the volcano and the coastline in the background
We then moved to the other side of the theatre which had unimpeded views of the coastline to the north of Taormina and since it was a relatively clear morning we could even see the coast of the Italian mainland from here. There was a small cafe here and if we hadn’t pigged out at breakfast some time ago I would surely have sat here and enjoyed a coffee. We just sat and enjoyed the views for some time and got our photos clicked on that clear spring morning.
The Sicilian east coast and the Italian mainland in the distance
The perfectly located cafe at the northern end of the Theatre complex
Getting our photos clicked courtesy of some kind fellow tourists with the great view
Having had our fill of the views we returned to the magnificent theatre to just sit in the seats for some time before descending down to the stage level.
Returning to the theatre to sit in the seats and gawk away for a few minutes
With such a location there can never be enough selfies
We descended to the stage level where a modern wooden stage was set up for the performances later in the summer. We got a closer view at the arches and columns of the partly collapsed wall on the far side that framed the volcano almost perfectly.
The partly collapsed wall on the far side frames Mt Etna perfectly
At the modern stage with an ancient backdrop in the Teatro Antico
After walking by the modern stage we said goodbye to the Theatre and walked out through massive ancient arches which held a few exhibits showing various stages of discovery and restoration of this monument in the century gone by.
The massive exit arch of the Teatro Antico
The exit of the Teatro Antico shows a mix of brickwork and stones
With that we said goodbye to the Teatro Antico and walked out the same way that we had entered. We had spent more than one and a half hours in the Theatre and by the time we exited there was a line which extended half way down the lane to enter the theatre! What a difference an early start can make!
Taormina was already starting to get crowded as it was a local holiday for Labour Day. So we made a snap decision to leave town and go down to the Isola Bella – literally translated to ” Beautiful Island” down on the coastline. There are many ways to reach Isola Bella from Taormina – a bus, a cable car and a paved pedestrian path hugging the cliffs. Since it was a pleasant spring morning and it wasn’t too hot yet we decided to walk down and enjoy the views on the way down and then take the cable car back up when it got warmer.
We walked out through the Porta Messina that we had entered through on our way into town and walked past the bus terminal till we reached a sign which pointed down towards Isola Bella. There was a small terrace here which had great Birds Eye view of the tear drop shaped island and its slightly bigger neighbour amidst the bluest water we had seen in a long time.
Isola Bella from the terrace at the start of the pedestrian path down from Taormina
At the terrace overlooking Isola Bella
We then started on the path down and the various shades of green of the trees, shrubs and cacti growing on the slopes made for a great contrast with the strikingly blue Ionian Sea beyond.
Green and blue are the colours on display on the path down to Isola Bella
Getting our photos clicked on the path down to Isola Bella
We then reached a narrow tar road with residential houses and with the help of Google maps found the next section of the path down which was down through a series of stairs in a pretty residential neighbourhood.
The tar road half way down to Isola Bella
The stairs down a pretty residential neighbourhood on the way down to Isola Bella
Finally we were down by the sea where we crossed the road and went down the last flight of stairs down to the rocky beach and through the seats of some beautifully located bars. We were finally at the narrow isthmus leading to Isola Bella. The rocky beach was full of people enjoying the sun and the pebbly beach with crystal clear water. Having enjoyed great sandy beaches back home in India I have never understood the fascination for these pebbly beaches or getting baked in the sun!
People enjoy the pebble beach with clear waters – Isola Bella in the background
We walked to the narrow isthmus which was reasonably wide at that time of the day ( and we had waterproof footwear anyway!). We walked to the edge of the island itself and enjoyed the shade there. The island itself needs tickets to enter and is not worth it by most accounts so we enjoyed the shady alcove at the edge of the island for a long time seeing all the others enjoy the sun.
The narrow isthmus leading to Isola Bella
Watching the others enjoy the sun from our cosy boulder in the shade
The spot where we enjoyed the clear waters and cool seaside breeze without getting burnt
The better half takes a photo of me at the edge of Isola Bella
Water so clear that you can see the seafloor underneath
After enjoying our spot in the shade for a few minutes we went to another conveniently located cluster of rocks on the opposite side with great views over the cliffside road to Taormina. We sat in the sun for a few minutes as the breeze made it tolerable and enjoyed that view for some time before crossing the Isthmus again and saying goodbye to Isola Bella
The cluster of rocks with a view at Isola Bella
Another selfie with the clear water of the Ionian Sea
Saying goodbye to Isola Bella
While there were a lot of tour operators running boat trips to caves around the coastline from there, we were not interested in the same. So we walked in the direction of the cable car back to Taormina and bought our one way ticket up to Taormina.
At the Cable car station up to Taormina
We got into the last of the series of 4 cable cars and took our spots at the window facing the coast. This is highly recommended as it gives great views over the coastline below as the cable car zooms up the slope.
In the cable car up to Taormina
Football field even where space is tight – Football is a religion here
We reached up to the cable car station at Taormina and were walking into town when we decided to check if there was a bus available to the hilltop village of Castelmola at that time. As the buses were running on Holiday schedule there was no bus available for the next few hours so we decided to put off our visit to the next morning.
It was already lunch time and our breakfast was long digested and tummies were growling for more food. The B & B owner had recommended a restaurant at the edge of town called “Liola Osteria and Bar”. We saw it on the way from the bus stop and luckily it had a table available. So we decided to have our lunch there. I ordered Swordfish rolls with baked potatoes while the better half had her first (of what would be many by the end of the trip) Pasta alla Norma, fresh pasta with tomato sauce, eggplant, veggies & salted Ricotta. This region is also known for its wine so I ordered a glass of White wine to go with the fish. The food and wine were both excellent and it was the perfect end to a great half day of sightseeing in Taormina.
Swordfish rolls with Baked potatoes
Pasta alla Norma – the better half’s go to dish in Sicily
Enjoying my glass of local White wine
Happy us at the Liola Osteria & Bar in Taormina
A beer person with a glass of wine
We returned to our B & B through the by now crowded streets of Taormina and decided to rest our legs for some time. The great meal meant that we would fall asleep for our afternoon siesta without any problem.
At our comfy room at the B & B Evelyne, Taormina
We would hike up to the Sanctuary of Madonna della Rocca as well as visit the Saracen Castle on top of the hill in the evening. It seemed like a short but steep climb but it would be a great way to get away from the crowds in the old town itself. But that is topic for another post, some other time, some other day.
Till then,
Ciao!
yogictravel 
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