This post is the continuation of a series documenting our travels across the Rhine and Moselle valley in Germany in the European summer of 2024. After a great couple of days in the city of Cologne ( Cologne by Dawn & Dusk – Rhine & Moselle valley, Part 2 ) we had moved on to the pretty little village of Bacharach ( Beautiful Bacharach & Burg Stahleck – Rhine & Moselle valley, Part 6 ) where we had spent a relaxing couple of days. We moved on from Bacharach & were now based in the Moselle valley town of Cochem where we had spent our first evening walking up to the castle and exploring the town itself ( First impressions of Cochem – Rhine and Moselle Valley, Part 7 ).
We woke up early on our only full day in Cochem and freshened up to go and take a pre breakfast walk around the town before it filled up with tourists coming off the river cruise boats.
The better half is all set for an early morning walk around Cochem
I have always enjoyed these early morning walks wherever I have been in Europe and it would be no different here. It’s always a pleasure to walk the pretty cobblestoned lanes without the accompanying crowds of mid day. The Rhine and Moselle valley architecture is known for its typical half timbered houses and Cochem was yet another beautiful example of it. Every lane is photogenic in it’s own right and we walked around at a leisurely pace making our way through the narrow lanes up towards the castle.
The Markt Square is unrecognisable early in the morning
The photogenic small lanes and square of Cochem in the Moselle valley
A small church in Cochem on our way up towards the castle
A pretty little dragon statuette on the doorposts of a house in Cochem
As we had been up to the castle the previous evening and would be going again the next morning to visit the castle itself we decided to change our route and go through the historic cemetery instead. Unlike the cemeteries depicted in movies , the cemeteries in small towns of Europe are always beautifully maintained spaces. This one in Cochem had a great view over the castle and the surrounding vineyards and I enjoyed taking photos of the castle from this different perspective.
Burg Cochem from the town Cemetery
The cemetery at Cochem is a well maintained , serene place
Burg Cochem from the town cemetery
We walked through the cemetery being respectful of where we were and crossed through to the exit on the other side through a gate in a stone tower. From there the steps descended through the houses and we were close to where we had started. We then walked back towards the Market square passing the small Rathaus / Town hall on the way.
Exiting through a gate in an old stone tower
A model of the castle decorates the gates of a house
The better half thought my jersey matched the house colour!
The Rathaus in Cochem
Back in the still empty Markt square
Since we still had some time we decided to walk to the other end of the old town through the Bernstrasse passing under the St Martin Church tower – which I found to be very photogenic especially when flanked by the different styled houses on each side.
The St Martin church tower with the gate under it
Bernstrasse continues on beyond the St Martin Church tower
In the business hours Bernstrasse is the crowded main lane in the old town which is lined by cafes , bakeries & souvenir shops. But at that early hour it was just a pretty lane in a picturesque town.
The Main Street of Bernstrasse early in the morning
We walked through Bernstrasse till it opened up into the square called Josef Steib square. It has a small fountain and a decorated tower called Kachelwand that had stairs to the Skagerrak bridge that we had crossed the previous evening. While none of these sites are jaw dropping the sum of all these makes Cochem a memorable place.
The small fountain of Josef Steib square
The Kachelwand tower decorated in different coloured tiles to make a mosaic
We then decided to end our morning walk and head back to the hotel. We had a day trip planned to the Burg Eltz that day. We wanted to enjoy our favourite meal of the day -breakfast at a relaxed pace before taking the train to Moselkern. So we went back through Bernstrasse and I couldn’t resist yet another photo of the St Martin’s tower – this time with the shop signs in the foreground.
St Martin’s tower from the other side of Bernstrasse
Back outside our hotel Am Markt on the Marktplatz
We then proceeded to enjoy a delicious and freshly laid out breakfast and filled ourselves to the brim as is our habit. The better half was particularly happy with the Cafe Latte that was perfect for her tastes.
The fresh and delicious breakfast at the Hotel Am Markt, Cochem
The better half is happy with her big cup of Cafe Latte
Filling up our tanks for a long day ahead
After finishing our breakfast we gathered our stuff and left for the train station to catch the next available train that would take us to Moselkern. Otherwise an unremarkable town, Moselkern is the closest railway station the the castle which is by many accounts the most spectacularly located castle in Germany – The Burg Eltz. As luck would have it we would miscalculate the time to reach the station at Cochem and watched our intended train leave just as we entered the station. I checked the train schedule posted there and saw that the next train was an hour later!
Reaching Cochem station to find our train already departed
With time to kill we decided to use the time to sit and enjoy the Moselle flow by languidly at the park that lined the river all the way from the station to the old town. It was a beautiful sunny summer morning and in retrospect the missed train allowed us to enjoy the beautiful locale a bit more without rushing around. I also had the added bonus of a flock of Egyptian Geese in the park and out came the 300mm Lens to take some of my favourite bird photos!
The riverfront promenade at Cochem – a relaxing place
The better half poses with the castle in the distance on the riverfront promenade
The 300mm lens brings the castle close
The better half enjoys a bench in the shade watching the Moselle flow by
Using the 300mm to take candid photos of the better half walking the promenade
Egyptian geese provide the 300 mm with some good close up portraits
Soon it was time for the next train and not wanting to miss this one too we left for and reached the station well in time. Our regional train soon arrived and a short 15 minute train ride later we were in sleepy little Moselkern.
Saying bye to our flock of geese on the riverfront promenade in Cochem
On the short regional train ride to Moselkern
The small train station at Moselkern
Burg Eltz was supposedly a one and a half hour hike from Moselkern and we set off with the aid of previously downloaded maps and helpful signs on the way. The path was first a tar road through the town which then passed through what I could only describe as a pretty residential area along a stream till it reached a hotel Ringelsteiner Muhle where the tar road abruptly ended.
Walking through Moselkern on the trail to Burg Eltz
A barn swallow on one of the houses in Moselkern
A redstart poses for the 300mm on the residential neighbourhood bench
A lawn ornament statue in the streamside residential neighbourhood in Moselkern
The bridge over the stream as we enter the forest
Where the tar road ended the dirt trail through the forest began which was well marked and there was never a feeling that we would get lost in the forest. We must have hardly run across a handful of people in the entirety of the trail – I assumed most people were taking the shuttle bus from a town called Treis-Karden which wasn’t really convenient for us to reach from Cochem. We enjoyed this trek through the dense forest only running across one or two narrow parts which seemed a bit iffy but nothing that could be considered dangerous.
Signs at every fork on the road make it impossible to get lost
A few photos taken on the forest trail to Burg Eltz
A Eurasian Chaffinch feeds on the trail to Burg Eltz
After a pleasant hour long hike through the forest we suddenly saw Burg Eltz rise up on a hill above us. The castle is so well located that you couldn’t see it till you actually reached close.
Burg Eltz suddenly comes into vision after an hour of walking through the forest
We climbed the last steps to reach the main bridge to the castle and immediately started taking photos. I quickly realised why Burg Eltz was so highly rated. I have seen bigger castles and I have seen prettier castles but I haven’t seen a castle that seems to suddenly rise out from nowhere in the middle of the forest.
Some photos of the amazingly located Burg Eltz
We then went to the courtyard and bought ourselves tickets to see the interiors of the castle. In the peak summer season there are frequent tours to visit the interiors of the castle which run in German and English (less frequent). We were lucky enough to reach at a time when there was an English tour on offer and we lined up with our tickets to see the inside of the castle.
The ticket counter in the outer courtyard of the castle
The inner courtyard of Burg Eltz showing the mishmash of architectural styles
The tour took us through the rooms of the castle while our guide told us about the history of the castle and how it was originally three small structures owned by 3 landlord families which slowly joined together to form the structure seen today by 1490. No photos are allowed inside the castle rooms and so I put my camera away and enjoyed a trip through history as the guide who was an enthusiastic young man made it interesting for everyone. It’s possible to visit 2 of the 3 families houses ans the third still lives there and maintains the castle itself. After the half an hour tour we said goodbye to the guide and went to visit the treasury museum of the castle which is included in the ticket price.
Taking some more photos of the inner courtyard at Burg Eltz
The treasury was the usual mix of arms, religious art and lavish cutlery usually seen in most castle museums. Never a fan of taking in more history than I can retain I usually rush through these museums unless a piece catches my fancy. So we walked through the rooms briskly, taking photos of whatever looked interesting before stepping out.
Some of the items on display that caught my attention at the treasury museum at Burg Eltz
With the castle interiors done we made a beeline for the small cafe outside the castle and enjoyed a well deserved snack and drink. I got currywurst with fries & a beer for myself while the better half enjoyed some veggie nuggets and her favourite apfelsaft.
Enjoying our drinks and snacks at the Cafe at Burg Eltz
With our tummies satiated we started on our way out of the castle stopping every few metres to capture yet another photo of this unique castle. We even went back to the main stone bridge where a kind fellow tourist took a photo of both of us with the castle.
Leaving Burg Eltz after our meal
A fellow tourist clicks our photo with the castle
We waited for the bridge to empty out before getting the usually jumping photos of the better half that were a must in a location like this!
The better half is airborne on the bridge to Burg Eltz
We then retraced our steps and went back down to the trail we had come from and walked back to Moselkern and caught the next train back to Cochem.
Happy us after our visit to Burg Eltz
Clicking the better half at various stages of the trail back to Moselkern train station
We would walk back to our hotel to rest our legs after having walked around 15km that day but not before enjoying a delicious gelato on the riverfront promenade.
Enjoying delicious gelato in Cochem
We rested for some time and waited for the town to empty out before going to the Bistro Am Brunnen right below our hotel for dinner. We had gone there for lunch the previous day and had enjoyed it a lot. I ordered a Schnitzel with cheese and a side of salad and fries while the better half had the vegetarian Flammenkuchen ( German pizza). I enjoyed my usual local beer while the better half changed it up and had a glass of pineapple juice.
Enjoying our dinner at the Bistro am Brunnen
We then decided to take yet another impromptu walk through Cochem old town to help digest our heavy meal. I always prefer living in the heart of old town wherever I go in Europe because we don’t have to think twice before setting out for a walk through this beautiful part of town.
At the courtyard outside St Martin’s Church
The Endertor gate to old town Cochem
Narrow cobblestoned lanes and half timbered houses -the essence of Cochem
We returned back to Marktplatz and our hotel to end a long but memorable day. Cochem and Burg Eltz had both lived up to their expectations. I was satisfied with the night photos I had captured the previous night so I decided to retire early that night and go out early morning the next day to see if I could capture some interesting reflection photos from the other side of the river. We also had planned to see the interiors of the Cochem castle before we left town.
Marktplatz empties out as the daylight fades in Cochem
Watching the square empty out from our hotel room
Whether I would have the energy to do the early morning walk the next day is topic for another post. Some other time, some other day.
I have gone overboard with the photos in this post as has been the case in this series because every place we visited was a pleasant surprise.
Till next time,
Tchau!
yogictravel 
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