This post is the continuation of a series documenting our travels in the Rhine and Moselle river valleys in Germany in the summer of 2024. We had spent two amazing days in the Romantic Rhine valley in the beautiful town of Bacharach ( Up the hill and down to the river in pretty Bacharach – Rhine & Moselle valley, Part 4 ) where we had roamed every corner of the pretty little town and visited the Burg Stahleck above it ( Beautiful Bacharach & Burg Stahleck – Rhine & Moselle valley, Part 6 ). We had also done a great day trip to the nearby town of St Goar and visited the ruins of the great Rheinfels castle that loomed over it ( Rheinfels Castle & St Goar – Rhine and Moselle Valley, Part 5 ). Next on the itinerary was a couple of days in the relatively low key Moselle valley and the town of Cochem.
We after our last morning stroll around Bacharach we picked up our luggage and went to the train station in time for our train to Koblenz, we would change trains there to reach Cochem.. Since it was peak tourist season the train to Koblenz which is the major rail junction in this region, was packed to the gills. We somehow got in and managed to find a seat for the better half after some time, while I stood with our luggage for the entirety of that leg of the journey. The second leg of the journey was a comfortable one in a slow regional train that ambled through the Moselle valley and we had window seats to enjoy the views on the river and the numerous vineyards that this region is known for.
Enjoying the views from the train to Cochem from Koblenz
Terraced vineyards that the Moselle valley is famous for
We reached Cochem and disembarked from the train and walked to our Hotel Am Markt that was located in the main market square of this small town. It was a hot summer day and we walked the 1 km from the station to the hotel seeking shade wherever possible. We reached our hotel where we found the reception unmanned. We had been given instructions to retrieve the keys from the “Keyboy” in the hotel lobby but we were struggling to work it out. Thankfully the cleaning staff up in the hotel noticed our struggles and helped us out and soon we were in our room.
At our great room in the Hotel Am Markt, Cochem
We freshened up and decided to have lunch at the Bistro Am Brunnen which was right next to our hotel and served a mix of traditional regional and Italian food which was perfect for both of us – I like to try the local stuff & the better half gets good vegetarian options where Italian food is available. So we went down and were offered the seats inside since all outdoor seats were full. Truthfully I don’t see the fun of eating outside on a scorching hot afternoon and was grateful for the indoor seats.
We ordered Spaghetti with tomato and cheese sauce for the better half (It had a healthy amount of sauce and veggies which was highly appreciated) and a meatlovers Flammkuchen ( Local flat bread with toppings – I call it German Pizza!) for myself. It was perfect weather for some cold drinks and I enjoyed a great local Weisbier (Wheat beer) & the better half her by now usual Apfelsaft ( Apple drink). The food was tasty and the location so convenient that we would visit the restaurant again before our time in Cochem ended.
Enjoying our lunch at the Bistro Am Brunnen , Cochem
Enjoying a cold glass of local Weisbier on a hot summer afternoon in Cochem
After enjoying a leisurely dinner we decided to return to our room and wait out the hot afternoon in the comfort of our room. We stepped out again in the evening when the day trippers and river cruise visitors had left town. The long days of summer meant that we had adequate time to walk up to the Cochem castle. We would visit the interiors of the reconstructed castle (like most castles in this region this too was blown up by Napoleon and his French revolutionary army! – more on that and the castle interiors in a later post ) on a later date since it was closed for visit now but the we thought the views from the castle courtyard over the town and the Moselle would be worth the hike up.
There is a motor able road and a scenic trail to the castle. We went up to the castle via the motor able road since we didn’t want to get lost the first time and we would take the trail down. We walked up the inclined road up towards the castle till we could see the pointy towers jutting out from the vineyards surrounding it.
The Cochem castle rises up from the vineyards surrounding it
We then reached the cobblestoned path leading up to the castle itself. We walked up this last stretch stopping ever so frequently to take photos of this beautiful setting – forest on the hills around, vineyards just below the castle and the beautifully reconstructed castle itself.
The cobblestoned path up to the castle
Stopping for selfies at this pretty location
The forested hills all around Cochem
We reached the main gate of the castle leading to the outer courtyard / viewing platform which was open at this time and is free to enter. There were just a handful of people there enjoying the view. They all left in a few minutes & unbelievably we were the only people left there enjoying the great view. We walked around the courtyard and enjoyed the view from the bench at the courtyard. Every direction was a photograph waiting to be captured and I enjoyed myself thoroughly.
At the gates of the Cochem Castle leading to the outer courtyard
All alone in the outer courtyard of Burg Cochem
The town of Cochem straddling the river Moselle from the castle
The reconstructed Cochem castle
The better half poses in front of the Burg Cochem
Pointy towers of the Burg Cochem against a cloudy sky
The sigil of the castle keeps a watch on the town below
Another photo of the Vineyards and town below from Cochem Castle
Happy us at the Cochem Castle courtyard
After having our fill of the views we decided to return to town via the scenic trail which was a paved path & stairs that went around the castle and down the hills through the woods before emerging at the far end of the town.
On the scenic trail down to town from Cochem Castle
The trail winds down the hill and emerges on the far side of Cochem
We then walked along the river till we came to the riverside park. As in most European small towns the riverside park was a quiet and beautiful place where locals and the tourists who chose to stay overnight like us sat and enjoyed watching the river flow by. There was no better place to sit and enjoy a cone of Gelato and we bought a cone and found ourselves a bench in the park and enjoyed Cochem at its best.
Walking by the river and looking back at the Castle above
Cochem, the river Moselle & the Castle above
A half melted gelato being relished at the riverside in Cochem
The river promenade park along the Moselle in Cochem
Enjoying the Cochem river promenade from the comfort of our bench
After enjoying the slow river flow by for a long time we decided to cross the Moselle on the nearby Skegerak bridge. It gave us the opportunity to see the town and the Castle from a different perspective and also gave us the opportunity to have dinner at the Da Vinci Ristorante and Pizzeria on the other side of the river which was highly rated.
So we left the comfort of our riverside bench and used the stairs on the riverfront to access the bridge and cross to the other side, stopping every so often to enjoy the views.
Views from the Skagerrak Brucke of Cochem and the castle above
We reached the Da Vinci Ristorante and Pizzeria without a reservation and were lucky enough to have a table available for 2 in the full restaurant. We enjoyed the delicious bread basket with the house butter before our even better Bruschetta and Vegetarian pizza arrived. That was devoured in no time with a big glass of Dark Beer (Dunkel) for me and Apfelsaft for the better half.
Enjoying my glass of Dunkel (Dark ) beer at the Da Vinci Ristorante & Pizzeria
The delicious Bruschetta and Vegetarian Pizza at the Da Vinci Ristorante
Enjoying a great dinner across the river at the Da Vinci Ristorante & Pizzeria
It was still bright when we finished dinner and started our walk back to our side of town. The long days of summer meant that I would have to step out again after 10 pm if it wanted to see the town lit up. We crossed the Skagerrak Brucke again and walked back to our hotel stopping in front of the fountain near the St Martin’s Church to take a few photos when there was almost no one around.
The residential neighbourhood on the other side of the Moselle in Cochem
Stopping on the bridge again as the sun finally starts setting
Clicking the Cochem stock photo in the golden light of dusk
An almost empty Cochem near the St Martin’s Church at dusk
The better half poses outside the St Martin’s Church , Cochem
A mandatory selfie outside the St Martin’s Church , Cochem
We returned to the main market square and it was almost unrecognisable from the square we had seen when we first entered town. Gone were the crowds and the outdoor tables of the various restaurants. What was left was a beautiful small town square with a handful of people enjoying it.
The main market square at Cochem is pleasantly empty at dusk
We returned to our hotel where we rested for sometime and waited for it to finally get dark. At 9.30 pm if finally started getting dark and I left the better half to rest at the hotel as I set off to capture the scene which had attracted me to Cochem in the first place – A lit up castle looking surreal above an equally pretty lit up town. I reached the riverfront promenade to find the lights still not switched on – both on the streets and up at the castle!
Reaching the riverfront promenade to find the street lights still not on at 9.30 pm
I was disappointed but decided to wait around for some time hoping that this wasn’t going to be the case for long. Slowly it started getting darker and one by one the street lights started getting switched on. Finally after what seemed like ages the castle lights switched on too. I had what I wanted and clicked away to glory!
The night time photo of Cochem riverfront promenade with the lit up castle above
Satisfied with my photos I started the walk back to the hotel taking photos of the lit up old town streets and market square on my way back. I have a special affinity for European Old towns that are beautifully lit up at night, Cochem was added to that already long list.
The lit up Market square at Cochem where our hotel was
Old town Cochem beautifully lit up at night
St Martin’s Church Tower and the Markt Square in Cochem
It had been a great first day in Cochem which was made greater by the Indian victory in the T20 World Cup semifinals that had been played that day (Hence the India jersey that day!). We had a day trip planned the next day to what was supposed to be the most scenic castle in Germany – The Burg Eltz.
Whether Burg Eltz lived up to those high expectations is the topic for another post, some other time, some other day.
Till then,
Tschau!
yogictravel 
3 comments