Cologne by Dawn & Dusk – Rhine & Moselle valley, Part 2

This post is a continuation of a series documenting our travels to the Rhine & Moselle river valleys in Germany in the summer of 2024. We had started our trip in Cologne which we reached via a train from Frankfurt Airport and made a beeline for the famous Cologne Cathedral ( The magnificent Cologne Cathedral – Rhine & Moselle valley, Part 1 ).

We had planned this trip around a Euro 24 match in Frankfurt that we had got tickets for, so that meant that the crowds in the major cities that hosted the matches, including Cologne were even worse than normal. So after we visited the Cathedral we didn’t even attempt to walk on the famous Hohenzollern bridge right next to it because it was packed with people end to end. We knew that won’t be the case early in the morning and so we got up early the next day and got ready to roam around the heart of Cologne without the crowds to go along with it.

It was summer in Europe and that meant that the sun was already up in the sky when we set off at 6.30 am but as expected there were no crowds to be seen as we walked towards the river. We walked to the riverside park which was full of people the previous afternoon to find it eerily empty in the morning.

The empty riverside park in Cologne at 6.30 am

We then walked up the stairs to the Hohenzollern bridge and our decision to postpone going to the bridge till this morning were immediately validated. We were the only non local people there and the remaining people were just a handful of locals on their morning walk / cycle runs . We got onto the bridge which is as iconic of Cologne as the Cathedral itself. No visit to Cologne is complete without visiting both!

The Dom, the Hauptbahnhof and the Bruck all in one frame!

The empty Cathedral end of the Hohenzollern bridge with a statue of Wilhelm II

The bridge which was originally and railway and road bridge was reconstructed in its original style post World War II as a Railway and pedestrian only bridge. It is adorned by countless so called “lovelocks” all along the bridge. While most other bridges elsewhere in Europe have started removing these locks citing structural damage, the bridge here has been determined to be strong enough to take the extra weight and so the locks stay on! We took a leisurely walk across the bridge taking photos every few metres and enjoying the views across the Rhine.

The better half enjoys the bridge views

Early morning is the best time to enjoy a walk across the bridge

The lovelocks line the Hohenzollern bridge end to end

The view of Fischmarkt & St Martin’s Church from the bridge

We reached the other side and walked along the now empty but extremely scenic Rheinpromenade, a public pedestrian pathway built along the river that gives great views over the Cathedral and the bridge we had just walked across. We walked along the promenade watching the barges and the river cruises sail down the river. I couldn’t stop taking photos of that iconic Cologne view from all angles possible!

The Cologne Cathedral and the Hohenzollern Bridge

At the base of the Hohenzollern bridge

Happy us at the Rheinpromenade in Cologne

Watching the cruise boats go by on the Rhine

At the end of the promenade

We then retraced our steps and were surprised to see the bridge still empty. I guess when the city parties late into the night (there was a Germany game the previous evening) it leaves the city empty in the early morning for people like us to enjoy!

The better half poses with the iconic Cologne view

After reaching the Cathedral end of the Bridge we decided to walk along the river on this side and pass through the other “Old town” areas of Cologne that were restored after WW II. While visiting Cologne you have to realise that most of this city was flattened by bombs in WW II. The cities like Munich decided to rebuild entirely as they were pre bombing while others like Frankfurt decided to rebuild in a modern way. Cologne is a mishmash of both – a few pockets have been restored to the pre war way while other parts of the city are built like modern cities.

At the Cathedral end of the Hohernzollern Bridge

The Cologne Philharmonie concert hall with the Cathedral in the background

Empty streets means more selfies with the Cathedral

We walked down to the park where we had entered the bridge early in the morning and walked along the park to the Fischmarkt area which has been restored with the old style of architecture.

Fischmarkt with the Tower of St Martin’s Church dominating the skyline here

Restaurants setting up for the day at Fischmarkt

We then walked to the St Martin’s church which was not open for visitors when we were there so we just took photos of the exteriors before walking towards the Alter Markt / Old market square.

At the St Martin’s Church in a quiet neighbourhood

Exteriors of the St Martin Church in Cologne

The Alter Markt square was all decked up as a public viewing area for the Euro 24 matches and would be crowded for rest of the day. We caught it at the right time when it was all peaceful and quiet. The ornate City hall/ Rathaus was also being restored when we went and so we could only get a view of its ornate facade through a fence.

The Rathaus / City hall Cologne and Alter markt

Alter Markt/ Old market square waits for the Euro 24 crowds later in the day

Since the route we wanted to see was closed for restoration we just took any lane in the direction of the Cathedral and started on our way back. These lanes are lined with beer houses and cafes that would be chock a block with people in a few hours but were deserted when we passed through.

Walking past beer houses and cafes early in the morning

We got back to the cathedral square on the other side of the cathedral of the bridge which was again set up with Euro 24 paraphernalia and I couldn’t resist taking a photo clicked with the giant football set up there.

Euro 24 paraphernalia at the Cathedral square in Cologne

Couldn’t resist asking the better half to click this

We walked past the facade of the cathedral where I took some more photos to add  to the dozens I had taken the previous day. I also took photos of the 50 AD roman Arch that has been set up here as a reminder of the city’s Roman roots and of the replica of the cathedral spire that is placed in the square, both of these had been obscured by the crowds the previous day.

The Cologne Cathedral facade early morning

The 50AD Roman Arch set up in front of the Cathedral

A replica of the tip of the Cathedral spires in the square in front of the Cathedral

With the spire tip replica at the Cathedral square

We then returned to the hotel for a well earned breakfast and then set off to see the Drachenburg castle for the day. (More on that in the next post)

I would return to the Hohenzollern bridge alone later that night to cross it again and go to the public viewing of the Italy vs Croatia match at the Tanzbrunnen which is a live music arena in Cologne. It gave me my first taste of a live viewing of the Euros with the local supporters albeit not in a stadium and more importantly it gave me a chance to photograph the bridge and the Cathedral all lit up at night.

I left the hotel at 8.45 pm and in the European summer it was still bright and no lights were switched on either at the cathedral or on the bridge itself!

Walking on the other side of the Hohenzollern bridge at dusk

Walking on the opposite side of the pedestrian pathway of the Hohenzollern bridge gave me a view of the city on the other side and the balancing man sculpture on the bridge that I had searched for unsuccessfully in the morning.

Cologne at dusk from the other side of the Hohenzollern bridge

The balancing man sculpture appropriately posed on the Hohenzollern bridge

I walked across the bridge and reached the venue for the screening where after a security check I  went to the public screening area where a sizeable crowd of Italy and Croatia supporters were gathered to watch the match.

The other end of the Hohenzollern bridge on the way to Tanzbrunnen

For the next two hours I enjoyed the public screening of the match with an extremely boisterous crowd. I was wearing an Italy jersey so I stuck to the Italian majority area of the screening and ooh-ed and aah-ed as they were down 1-0 for most of the match and almost out of the tournament before they dramatically equalised late into injury time pushing Croatia out of the tournament and the Italian fans went mad!

Watching the screening of the Italy vs Croatia match in Tanzbrunnen, Cologne

The final whistle was my cue to leave quickly before the majority of the crowd, that were either ecstatic or despondent depending on the team they were supporting started to leave.

Leaving the Tanzbrunnen arena after the match

It was now well past 11 pm and the lights were finally in full effect. I walked all along the river front and took photos of the bridge and the cathedral in all its lit up glory with my SLR that I had taken to the screening just for this. I should be grateful that the Euros were on which meant a huge police presence all along the river. I had heard about the seedy nature of these locations late at night but the international tournament on meant all the extra steps being taken, making this an extremely safe solo late night stroll.

I got the photos of the Cologne Cathedral and the Hohenzollern bridge from both sides of the bridge. It was a cloudy night and that meant even better photos – It was a dream walk as a photography enthusiast and I enjoyed myself thoroughly.

The Cologne Cathedral and the Hohenzollern bridge all lit up from the Tanzbrunnen arena

I even decided to cross over to the other side of the bridge where we had gone in the morning and take even more photos from that side.

The Cathedral and the Hohenzollern bridge from the Rheinpromenade

After enjoying the view for a few minutes I got on the bridge and started my walk back towards the cathedral taking more photos of the bridge with the lit up cathedral in the background. Photographs I will always remember!

My favourite photos of the Brucke and the Dom at night

I walked towards the cathedral not wanting to miss my opportunity to take photographs of Cologne Cathedral all lit up even though it was almost midnight and we had a full day of travel & sightseeing planned the next day.

The end of the Hohenzollern bridge with the Cathedral in the background

 I circled the cathedral and took photos of the imposing structure looking even more massive lit up at night. There were still people around returning from the screenings all around the city and England fans that were gathering for their match in Cologne the next day.

The Cologne Cathedral lit up at midnight

With a final photo of the Cathedral from the train station entrance I returned to the hotel where the better half was wondering where I had disappeared till I showed her the photos of the bridge and Cathedral at night.

The lit up Cologne Cathedral from the hauptbahnhof gate

We had spent a great full day getting away from the crowds in Cologne visiting the Drachenburg castle and walking through the beautiful city of Bonn.  It had been a great day bookended by great walks across the river in Cologne on the famous Hohenzollern bridge at the time when it was peaceful and beautiful.

I should be writing about the Drachenburg castle visit soon in another post, some other time, some other day. I wanted this post to be about the gritty but memorable city that is Cologne that I was glad I had put on this itinerary.

Till next time,

Bye.